The Sardine Run is truly extraordinary, but definitely not resort diving. Basically, you spend all day on a RIB (rigid inflatable boat) on the open sea during the South African winter, often in rough conditions, mostly bouncing on the pontoons of the RIB, ranging 40-50 km up and down the coast each day. The boats launch and return through surf at the river mouth. You live in your wetsuit, but some days never even get in the water. (Not to worry, you'll still get wet enough on the boat.) When you do get in, you won't stay long - temperatures are cold (15-20 C) and the visibility can be terrible.

It's also a great deal of fun, particularly if you are in good company, which I definitely was. We had a great group. Unfortunately, my housing failed on the one dive-able baitball we got. Yes, with bronze whaler sharks, porpoises, diving gannets - AND good visibility. But just being there was more than enough. I was hardly disappointed. Being able to swim with and photograph a humpback whale was the experience of a lifetime. In 15 days, we saw at least 30 humpbacks, as well as super-pods of Common dolphins, and gazillions of gannets. It was quite a show.

Peaky, our experienced skipper, was extremely knowledgeable and fun ton and off the boat. The Hovig family and Mark were great company through it all. John and Katherine, owners of the Outspan Inn in Port St. John's, were wonderful hosts. My special thanks to Drew, who make it all possible.    

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